A great chat with Karen Bester from Lamelle Research Laboratories revealed the trends that are here to stay. You know every 2 seconds there is a new thing to try, or product that you “must have”and so many promises are made about new products and regimes that will reverse the ravages of ageing, promising the elixer of youth and eternal beauty. While some may stand up under scrutiny – all too often these fads are just that. Fads.

Popular trends influenced by the pervasive presence of social media. Beauty regimes and products should be innovative and meet the unique needs of consumers and not just for a season. The bottom line is a gorgeous glowing complexion has never been easier and advances in skincare – the biggest segment in the beauty industry – have never been more exciting.

South African medical supplier to the aesthetic industry, Lamelle Research Laboratories, is a company that isn’t interested in fads and is throwing some light on the trends likely to impact skin care through the course of 2017 and beyond.

Great skin starts in the gut:
If the saying is true that you are what you eat, perhaps you can “eat your skin healthy”? Imagine being able to take your sunscreen orally or drink your skin brighter, healthier or younger?

Not the usual drink more water and your skin will be brighter and healthier. No – this is far more interesting. With research on the use of natural ingredients it’s now actually possible to take an oral supplement that can do just that. Ovelle D3 from Lamelle contains ingredients that can in fact build resistance to the sun and have anti-ageing effects on your skin. This truly is beauty from within.

Hyaluronic acid sweeps drugstores shelves:
The presence of hyaluronic acid (HA) in skin stimulates the production of more HA. This occurs when HA – not only a plumping agent but a starch that can be used for energy – is metabolised.

Smaller strands of HA or HAfi – Hayalorinic acid fragment intermediate – are formed during this process, which, when linked to specific cells, generates more HA. At Lamelle we not only add large molecules of HA into our products, we also include HAFi fragments and in so doing, stimulate skin to produce even more HA. Fad compounds come and go but HA is not a trendy ingredient – it’s one of the most valuable and it’s here to stay.

Our cleansing habits need an overhaul:
Soap and water is not the answer to cleansing and causes more harm than good. The solution lies in soap-free alternatives known as gel cleansers. They contain surfactants that break the molecular tension of oils on the skin, still foam like soap, but don’t break the bonds in between skin cells – preventing damage to the skin’s structure. The more water you add the more they foam.

This makes cleansing very cost effective. Some manufacturers add toning or exfoliating ingredients to their gel cleansers, effectively combing two treatment steps into one. The more creamy gel cleansers foam – but very little – so they are more hydrating.

At home skincare devices vs in office treatments:
For most people time constraints and a lack of motivation stops them from performing home treatments. As with any beauty regime – it’s about treatment frequency. The skincare therapist is also trained to perform the treatment at a higher intensity.

For instance a home based machine used to penetrate products into the skin will only work at 0,5 mAmps where an in office machine can safely operate at 5mAmps.

This results in quicker absorption of more ingredients than can be achieved at home. Effectively you would have to use your home device daily for several weeks to achieve the same effect as an in office treatment.

Ingesting beauty goes mainstream:
Pygnogenol, from the French Maritime Pine tree, is a super anti-oxidant which will not only protect the skin’s structures from dangerous free radicals, but also help stimulate the production of hyaluronic acid (HA).

It also protects skin from harmful UVA and UVB rays by increasing your skin’s resistance to the sun. In a study of women with Melasma (hormonal pigmentation) we found that after using the product for just four weeks, the intensity of the pigmentation (darkness) improved by 38% – while the size reduced by 21%.

Pygnogenol for skin is found in the oral supplement Ovelle D3 and is combined with active Vit D3 to treat current D3 deficiencies.

Retinoids are the new hyaluronic acid:
The challenge, especially with prescription strength Retinoids, is their side effect profile. They can trigger dryness, tight skin, an itchy sensitivity in delicate skin, with a fine rash in extreme cases. Over the years many women have had to weigh up the advantages against the discomfort.

The result is retinoids are increasingly used for acne and the advantages for ageing skin have been forgotten. Today we are able to produce a prescription strength retinoid that delivers on the promise of: smooth skin, more collagen and less elastosis – without any side effects.

This ingredient is found in Lamelle Correctives RA Cream and Dermaheal Ultra Renewal cream.

For further information on Lamelle Research Laboratories visit www.lamelle.co.za 

About Karen Bester:
Karen is a trained nurse with a passion for skin. She has experience in psychiatry, neurosurgery, trauma, ICU and spent three years working as a burns specialist. Moving from a purely medical profession into the medical aesthetic field was an incredible opportunity and the start of a brand new journey.

Even after 10 years in her current field, she is regularly asked if she misses nursing. While there are certain areas that make her nostalgic for her nursing days, she loves the finesse and glamour of the beauty industry. This does not take away from her passion to fix things and there are still moments of triumph and great reward in her role.

“We are lucky to work in beautiful settings but the challenges here are just as real; perhaps not life threatening – but definitely life changing. There’s nothing more inspiring than to give a woman confidence so that her true beauty can shine through. Women with pigmentation or the acne sufferer – often hide behind layers of thick make-up. It’s truly gratifying to help these women and to see them go on to own their personal power.”

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